Thursday, July 10, 2014

Christine Daae Foundation Wear

The silhouette requires an elliptical hoop, bustle pad, and a corset. I don't have any pictures from the making of the hoop skirt and it'll be really hard to describe without them so I suggest you do research if you want to make one yourself or just buy one ready made or in a kit. Try trulyvictorian.net.







A bustle pad is basically just a pillow that you tie around your waist to help hold up the skirts in back and give yourself a big butt. I took a skirt that was too short for me and cut the lining out.
Then I traced out a roughly rounded shape along the bottom getting rid of the A-line.
And cut it out...
Then sew around the edges making sure to leave the top open and then stuff it with pillow stuffing. Sew up the the opening and sew in some string.
Due to the time period I found a tutorial on drafting a pattern for a Victorian corset. I haven't quite figured out how drafting works so I can't really explain how I did it beyond just following the tutorial. Unfortunately, I can't recall what tutorial it was.. There are lots of tutorials for corsets out there so finding one that makes sense to you and will work for your project shouldn't be that hard.

First, I made a mock up out of muslin. Technically you're supposed to make the mock up with boning and eyelets but I didn't have extra boning and eyelets. I really just wanted to check the sizing.

 I deviated from the tutorial on a couple things: the fabric choice and construction method. I used some sturdy woven fabric my mom had in her stash in place of corset coutil and a patterned cotton for my "fashion fabric". I cut out two of each pattern piece from each fabric with seam allowance.
 I sewed two corsets, one from each fabric, then I placed them right sides together and sewed up the sides, not the top or bottom. I turned them right sides out. I sewed channels for the boning at each seam and put in eyelets on both ends... not very evenly... practice makes perfect?

 I used thick heavy duty zip ties for boning. I trimmed them down to the proper length and then used a file to round out the ends. I used two zip ties in both channels next to the eyelets and two in the channels centered over my girls.




 I used more of the fashion fabric to make binding to cover the top and bottom edges and keep the boning in. I used some cheap cord for lacing.


Below is the finished foundation wear... The petticoat I made using a Truly Victorian pattern. Does my waist look tiny?? ;)


Stay Beautiful <3

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